Seville Diary Pt.1: Buenos días, España
Written January 24, 2023 via journal. Photos via my phone + disposable camera.
It is so beautiful here. From my hostel room window, I could see a dim light peeking through the alleyway inviting me into the chilly morning. The lack of sleep I retained from 29 hours of traveling and the Italian man snoring in a bunk bed next to me made it difficult to leave the comfort of a bed, but the curiosity of the city I had landed in last night trumped my laziness. I put on my jacket, brushed my teeth, packed up my $5 Goodwill suitcase, and returned my keycard to the front desk. As quickly as I had awoken, I ventured out of the lobby into the cobblestone streets.
First photo I took in Sevilla after passing through the alley
After weaving through buildings I finally turned the corner out of the dark alley. What splendor it is, the way the daylight hits Seville.
Surely I looked ridiculous, walking buoyantly on the cobblestone roads and gawking at the sights that the locals have become accustomed to. “Yes, our buildings are hundreds of years old, what of it?,” they must think. Seville seems to have a skillful mix of chaos, beauty, and tranquility. The river beaming with sparkles from the early light was tranquil; the architecture and winding streets are beautiful; the homeless man peeing on a dumpster and the moto-scooters rushing through traffic like hornets were chaotic. The latter doesn’t take away from the charm though, not at all! After spending my morning walking throughout the city I crossed the bridge to Triana, the old neighborhood of Seville with a large market, and stopped for breakfast. I found a little place filled with paintings of bull fighters and old liquors and decided it would do, only casually discover from the waitress it’s been running for over 143 years. I sipped on two coffees and successfully ordered the most delicious omelette I ever had.
You have these strange moments when traveling alone where you suddenly think to yourself, “Everything here is wonderful.” Why did I think this? I’m still not entirely sure, as I’ve only been here for a day. Could it be because the restaurant I was eating at was older than the invention of the stop sign? Could it be because of the lovely dialect people have when speaking Spanish in this part of the country? I’m not sure, but I had that eureka! moment then. The chatter in the restaurant, waitresses carrying trays filled with little cups of café con leche and bread, the hiss of the espresso machines, the giant cash register ringing loudly as it opened and closed, a group of elderly men playing cards on a tiny table, a pair of women flipping through a newspaper. Through the overwhelming mix, there was a sense of calm. Have you ever been in a bustling area filled with people and felt like you are a part of the noise, a part of what’s happening? I’m sure I stuck out like a sore thumb, the tourist girl with her tweed suit case and her dirty walking sneakers sitting at the bar and taking a stab at ordering in Spanish, but while in this new city I feel like I’m already slowly becoming familiar (helped by the welcoming locals, for sure). It’s probably my favorite thing about traveling, sitting in a new place and learning by taking in the noise. You learn how the people who have lived here their entire lives order their coffee, how they talk to the servers, why they prefer cream over milk, what they and their buddies are going to do that day. It’s the best experience you can get, in my opinion. Nothing makes you become accustomed faster than choosing to sit and be the student among your peers, listening to everyone and everything around you.
Though I am able to speak some conversational Spanish, I’m no expert. When my Spanish fails, the charades kick in. After breakfast, I stopped at a convenience store to try and purchase a lighter. I could not for the life of me remember what “lighter” was in Spanish. After a few moments of trying to think, I instead decided to imitate lighting a cigarette. With my very convincing “chik, chik” sounds, the man knew what I wanted immediately. Makes sense, considering how many people smoke in Spain. It fills the air with a slight scent. This morning the whole city smelled like fresh laundry, coffee, roasting meat, and cigarettes.
Throughout the rest of the day, I met my Airbnb host Ignacio and explored areas he recommended. The riverbank, the main Square, various tapas bars and cafés. I couldn’t help thinking to myself if every day was going to be this great, the kind of joy that one feels on their first day in a new place. At least, I hope everyone gets to feel this way. Taking in the new people, new food, and new language, everything feels amazing, And after this first day I can’t wait to experience more of Seville.
